Florida Initial Observations

Aside from the spectacular cloud formation in front of me as I headed south on I-75 to my hotel in Naples, there were three things I noticed since landing in Tampa: (1) How green Florida is (I read it has over 2800 native plant species), (2) How flat it is (no hills in site anywhere). (3) How muggy it is (it sticks to ya).

Everglades

Everglades City

The first goal of Florida was hitting the Everglades, and in particular, an airboat tour (a bucket list item for years). While waiting for the airboat tour, I decided to check out Everglades City (pop. 400), a sleepy lost-in-time community with historic buildings dating to the 1920’s. It’s worth a drive through, and is the only town in this part of the Everglades.

Airboat Tour

There are dozens of airboat tour companies, and I chose Everglades City Tours. It was a great rush gliding through the thin channels and byways and into open areas for alligator spottings.  As much as I enjoyed the ride, I would recommend two things if you’re interested in an airboat tour: (1) Use one of the tour companies in the eastern section of the Everglades (alligators like fresh water, and since our location was close to the ocean, our tour only spotted one gator.) (2) Go for a two hour ride on a private tour as opposed to a six-person group tour.

Backwoods Everglades and Skunk Ape

Aside from swamp and gators, the Everglades has its share off head-turning road curios. As I was driving along Highway 41, I noticed what looked like an ape-like creature coming out of the woods. Turns out it was a lure for nearby Skunk Ape Research Center. The Everglades has its own version of Bigfoot, and the owner says there are seven or eight of these cryptids wandering the Everglades.

The Everglades is also home to the smallest post office in the US – a tiny shack (60 sq. feet) with just enough room for one postal worker. It has a plaque next to it detailing its history.

Key Largo

As much as I wanted to drive the distance of the Florida Keys after leaving the Everglades, I only had time for one night at Key Largo.  I stayed at the Marriott Key Largo Bay Beach Resort, which has a huge pool overlooking the bay, jet skis you can rent, and Cactus Jack’s and Senor Frijoles next door for music, drinks and food. Both have a great laid back Jimmy Buffett “it’s five o’clock somewhere” vibe.

The Cloisters of the Ancient Monastery

Out of Key Largo, I headed north up the coast and bypassed most of Miami, but did have to stop at what is supposedly the oldest standing structure in the Western Hemisphere: The Cloisters of the Ancient Monastary. Dating to 1130’s AD in medieval Spain, It has a fascinating history. Originally brought over from Spain in bricks by William Randolph Hearst, it almost never got assembled due to his bankruptcy. AtlasObscura, a favorite site of mine, has a detailed article on it. 

Jensen Beach and Flagler Beach

North of Miami, I headed up Highway 1 for the beautiful beach drive and nonstop palm tree beach towns (Delray and Palm Beach are couple favorites) and isthmuses (Highway A1A). In Jensen Beach, I had excellent seafood at the Dolphin Bar and Shrimp House. In Flagler Beach (named after the “father of Miami”, Henry Flagler), I had a hearty omelette at the Funky Pelican. Flagler Beach has a laid back beach vibe and is worth checking out!

Silver Springs

After Flagler Beach I headed west to one of the most iconic (and retro!) tourist destinations in the state: Silver Springs.  A National Historic Landmark, Silver Springs started its famous glass bottom boat tours just after the Civil War in the 1870’s. Six Tarzan movies from the 1930s were filmed there, along with Moonraker and Creature From the Black Lagoon.  Sadly, Disney ended up taking all of Silver Springs’ glory.

Webster

One of the main reasons I came to Florida was to see some true swampy backwoods towns. I found that in Webster, a city of 800 off Highway 471 in the middle of nowhere. Founded in 1855, it is considered the “cucumber capital” of Florida. Once central to the citrus industry, the great freeze of 1894-95 forced the town to change over to vegetables. That’s literally all the info I could find on it. Hanging moss trees cover the town.  Many of the Main Street buildings are boarded up, the main gas station is abandoned, and the local barber shop is in a wooden shack.

Spook Hill

Noted on all these of “cool and unusual things to check out in Florida” lists is Spook Hill in Lake Wales. A National Historical Landmark, this “gravity illusion” hill is the type of “mystery spot” the Griswolds from National Lampoon’s Vacation may have stopped at. You park your car on this white line, put car in neutral, and while the optics fool you into thinking you will roll forward, you end up rolling backwards!

Lakeland

After arriving in Lakeland (the base for checking out Bok Gardens early the next day) the Lakeland Marriott front desk recommended checking out the Italian Renaissance Polk Theatre (1928) where Elvis played three shows in his prime in 1956 (view photos here). He also came back for some more shows well past his prime in 1976 (view video here).

Bok Tower Gardens

Bok Tower Gardens is a massive “contemplative garden” and bird sanctuary with numerous trails to explore. Located about 45 minutes east of Lakeland, it was built in the 1920’s in Spanish Revival style by Frederick Olmstead, who is noted for planning Washington DC’s layout and projects in Yosemite.  It’s a nice peaceful escape.

Plant City

On the way from Bok Gardens to Tampa, I explored some of Plant City, and found some cool Art Deco architecture from Florida’s initial growth years in the 1920’s-30’s.

Tarpon Springs

I had some time to burn before hitting the Rays game in Tampa for my final night, so I headed about 45 minutes north of Tampa to Tarpon Springs. While it is known for its Greek heritage, I stumbled upon the Replay Pinball Museum, which has over 100 pinball and video games (including some awesome classics and rare oldies). Rather than having to lug around a pound of quarters, you pay one price at the door and have unlimited play on all the games. It was great fun and I found some old favorites here like Donkey Kong, Defender and Galaga.

After the game bonanza, I drove through Tarpon Springs with it’s Greek-style white and blue buildings. It was packed with tourists, and luckily I found parking for a lamb shawarma. Founded by Greek sponge fisherman in the early 1900’s, it has the highest percentage of Greeks of any American city. You can still watch the sponge fisherman from the docks.

Tropicana Field

While Tampa Bay Rays’ Tropicana Field routinely gets voted the worst major league ballpark, I beg to differ on that; in my book, the worst either goes to Miami Marlins Stadium or Oakland Coliseum, both of which have virtually no redeeming qualities. While Tropicana Field has worn turf and a dreary grey ceiling (which outfielders lose fly balls in), a couple things saved it from ranking at rock bottom.

First off, the food court and bar area plaza behind centerfield is a fun open space to wander around, and there are various spots to stand and watch the game while hanging out and having a beer. Though I paid for a ticket behind home plate, I ended up watching the game from here for the fun atmosphere. Second, behind the center field wall is a pool of real sting rays swimming around. No joke! You can even wait your turn in line and pet them.