Louisiana and Natchez Trace

by Mark Loftin | Jun 17, 2022 | Middle U.S. | 0 comments

Quick Stats

Distance: 1000 miles

Recommended time: 3 days

Highlights: Louisiana backroads, Cajun/Creole food, Natchez Trace Parkway, random discoveries

Main Highways: Natchez Trace Parkway, LA-82, 27, 61, 90, INT-20

States: The swampy bayous, Cajun/Creole food, Natchez Trace and small town Americana outweighed some dingy areas to make it all worthwhile.

Gulf Coast Area

After landing in Houston, I headed east towards the Gulf coast. These coastal highways were filled with oil refineries (4th largest oil production area in the country) and beach communities on flood stilts. This was the first time I had pulled into a town whereas every building was on stilts – the homes, the church, and even the high school! Holly Beach is a perfect example of this.

Beige-colored church on cement stilts, statue of biblical figure in front. Hazy grey sky above.

Church on stilts, west of Holly Beach, Louisiana

Road leading to refinery steeples in the distance, orange haze sky above.

One of many huge oil refineries on Highway 82, SE of Port Arthur, Texas

Street with a house on each side, both high up on flood stilts.

Holly Beach, Louisiana

Lafayette

Lafayette is known for its Cajun/Creole food and the University of Louisiana. I had excellent crawfish etouffee with alligator bites at Bon Temps Grill. My favorite part of Lafayette though was nearby Lake Martin, which has a hiking trail around it and airboat rides.

Two scoops of rice on crawfish étouffée dish.

Crawfish Etouffee at Bon Temps Grill

Fried alligator bites, resembling fried chicken tenders.

Alligator bites at Bon Temps Grill, Lafayette

Wooden dock hanging over dark green lake with some trees in lake in the distance, cloudy sky above.

Lake Martin, Louisiana

Three story abandoned brick building with the windows boarded up or missing. Figure of Christ hanging from cross in front. Clear blue sky.

Abandoned Holy Rosary Institute (1913), Lafayette

Shed with rusty tin roof at far right in the grass, with some trees nearby. Cloudy sky above.

Abandoned shack near Lake Martin

Looking over the edge of road bridge from car window into swampy area with some barren trees. Blue sky above with some clouds.

Highway 10 on extended bridge between Baton Rouge and Lafayette

Avery Island

Avery Island is the home of the Tabasco Sauce Factory, which unfortunately was closed for repairs. Luckily I was allowed to drive on the beautiful grounds, which was a fun 20 minute drive down a narrow dirt road through hanging moss trees.

Dirt road leading in between hanging moss trees, grey sky above.

Avery Island, Louisiana

Houma

I wanted to check out a town deep in bayou country, and this is where the dart landed. Main Street had some New Orleans-style French Quarter charm, but it’s a pretty beat-up down-its luck town, and one I wouldn’t visit again. I did came across something you don’t see here in California – an above-ground cemetery!

Mural of Coke sign and bottle on side of building in center of downtown area, some building on the right and left of it, grey cloudy sky above.

Houma

An above ground cemetery with various tomb designs, blue sky above with scattered clouds.

Above ground cemetery, Houma, Louisiana

American flag hanging from lit lamp post, courthouse building in background. Blue sky with some clouds above.

Houma Courthouse

Oak Valley Plantation

Built in 1837, Oak Valley Plantation is famous for its 800 feet long row of oak trees, and it’s worth a walk on the grounds and through the house to see what plantation life was like. This plantation is also known for a famous scene in the opening episode of the HBO series True Detective.

Series of oak trees with a walking path in between them, leading to a two-story high plantation building. Blue sky in the background.

Oak Alley Plantation, Vacherie

Lone tree sitting perfectly centered in corn field. Blue sky above with a few clouds.

“The tree” from HBO series True Detective, Season 1, Episode 1, Oak Alley Plantation

Two police cars and a few detectives walking to a lone tree in a corn field, a scene clip from HBO's True Detective series.

“The tree” as seen in True Detective, Season 1, Episode 1

Baton Rouge

Baton Rouge is the capital of Louisiana, and the capital grounds are among the best groomed I’ve been on (California’s, by comparison, are filled with trash). The grounds are perfect for an extended morning walk, coffee in hand.

Louisiana Capitol building, tall white building with well groomed shrubs and grass in front.

Louisiana State Capitol, Baton Rouge

Main entrance to Tiger Stadium at Louisiana State University, walkway with memorials leading to gate.

Tiger Stadium (1924) at Louisiana State University

Natchez Trace Trail

The Natchez Trace is one of those epic drives worth repeating. This was my second drive here, and winding through the trees and swampy scenery was just as fun the second time around. Being a national parkway, there are no typical highway signs, lights, billboards or clutter. Just nonstop scenic beauty.

Stone bridge over road that disappears into trees ahead. Some sunlight coming through clouds onto the road.

Natchez Trace Trail, Mississippi

Road disappearing into trees ahead, blue sky with some clouds above.

Natchez Trace Trail

Natchez

Natchez has a lot of antebellum charm, and is worth driving around for an hour. I had lunch overlooking the Mississippi River at The Magnolia Grill and recommend it! The King’s Tavern, built in 1769, is the oldest house in Natchez and supposedly haunted.

Natchez, Mississippi

Brown wooden house built in 1769 with chimney on side. Sign in front describing its history.

King’s Tavern (1769), oldest building in Natchez, supposedly haunted

Longwood Mansion

The largest octagon house in the United States, the Longwood Mansion (1861) was featured in the HBO Vampire series True Blood. The mansion is supposedly haunted, and it looks the part. Adding to the creepiness is the fact that after all these years the house is still unfinished!

Ornamental octagon house with red sphere perched on top of white circular tower. Blue sky with some thick white clouds.

Longwood Mansion (1859) outside Natchez, featured in HBO series True Blood

Room inside the antebellum Longwood Mansion, with wooden floors, bed at right, and tour guide at left explaining the history.

Supposedly haunted room at Longwood Mansion on bottom floor

Looking up a circular spire inside the unfinished Longwood Mansion, interior construction boards visible.

Most of Longwood is unfinished

Jackson

Aside from the capital building and some great BBQ at the Hickory Pit ten miles out of town, there’s not a lot I can recommend here. Unless seeing every state capital is on your bucket list, I would just stay on the freeway and not stop in Jackson. That’s all you need to know.

Plate of barbecue ribs, baked beans and cheese bread on red and white checkered table cloth.

Mississippi BBQ outside Jackson at the Hickory Pit

Path leading to front Mississippi State Capitol building, blue sky above with some thick clouds. Trees on both sides of the pathway.

Mississippi State Capitol (1903), Jackson

Downtown Jackson Mississippi at sunset, with painted electrical box on sidewalk at right reading "blues trail."

Mississippi Blues Trail marker in Jackson, Mississippi

Vicksburg

Vicksburg is a worthy stop for the National Military Civil War site, which you can drive through and stop at various spots along the way to read the displays and memorials.