Quick Stats
Distance: 300 miles
Recommended time: 2 days
Highlights: Joshua Tree, Pioneertown, Salton Sea, Integratron, Giant Rock, California City
Main Highways: CA-58, 247, 111, 86
Summary: This desert odyssey explores world renowned Joshua Tree and lesser known gems with intriguing pasts, such as California City (featured in a recent hit podcast series), the paranormally connected Integratron and Giant Rock and the surreal surroundings of the Salton Sea.
California City
Lost in the Mojave Desert, California City has a population of 14,000, but is the third largest city in state by land mass. How can that be? This is one scenario where the Field of Dreams quote “build it and they will come” didn’t work out.
A real estate developer by the name of Nat Mendelson purchased 82,000 acres of desert land in the late 1950’s with dreams that it would one day rival Los Angeles, and hired master planners to lay out the roads, parks and infrastructure. Unfortunately, for a variety of reasons, the people never came. Driving through certain areas of the city – with empty dirt roads that disappear into infinity – gives the feeling of a post-apocalypse. As you’re driving east on barren Highway 58 towards the north turnoff to the city, you see the California City city limits sign about 15 miles before you actually hit the town.
Atlas Obscura did a great write up on its history and LAist Studios did an intriguing podcast on the real estate scandals here that bankrupted some California dreamers.
Road to California City off Highway 58
Auspicious Welcome Sign!
California City’s one of many “streets to nowhere”
This empty street did get one house
Defunct Silver Saddle Ranch, the focus of the California City podcast
Landers
A mysterious looking white dome that looks like either a geodesic home or a UFO landing, the Integratron was featured in the 2018 Amazon Prime documentary Calling All Earthlings. Designed by UFOlogist George Van Tassel (who claimed the design instructions were provided to him by aliens from Venus), it was financed by Howard Hughes and the UFO conventions that Van Tassel organized.
Landers
Integration
He claimed the structure had rejuvenation properties, and would eventually be capable of time travel (he died in 1978 before its completion). A National Historic Landmark, it is claimed to be “acoustically perfect”, and rock band Arctic Monkeys recorded their song “Secret Door” there. Tours are available, but must be booked well in advance.
Around the corner and down a dirt road from the Integratron is the largest freestanding boulder in North America, Giant Rock, which is also connected with Van Tassel. Van Tassel lived underneath the rock with his family (it reportedly never got over 80 degrees underneath in the sweltering desert), and held his UFO conventions nearby. The local Native Americans consider the rock sacred. As usual with curio sites like this, Atlas Obscura has done a terrific write up.
Giant Rock, which split apart in 2010
Sealed off entrance to living quarters
Pioneertown
A great home base for exploring Joshua Tree is Pioneertown (pop. 420), a town created as a film set in the 1940’s and featured in The Cisco Kid and some Gene Autry westerns. Pappy and Harriet’s is the happening place in town with good grub, outdoor seating and a stage (Paul McCartney played here in 2016). Pioneertown is a perfect stargazing area – check AirBNB for homestead rentals and get a place with a hot tub for a night show.
Pappy and Harriet’s, Pioneertown
Homestead Modern #1, available on Airbnb, Pioneertown
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree National Monument is one of those other-worldly bucket list parks that has you wondering if you’re still on planet earth. While there are extended hikes, many of the best ones are short one-to-three milers that have a reward at the end – like an old mine or a rock resembling a skull staring you down. Endless photo opportunities here, and make sure to get in the park early during peak seasons (Fall and Spring).
Bagley’s Grave on Wall St. Mine Trail
Wall Street Mine Trail, Joshua Tree
Rhythm of Life, north of Joshua Tree, Yucca Mesa
Desert Christ Park, north of Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley
Salton Sea
Once a resort destination, the Salton Sea is now a wasteland of decaying resort communities and eccentric art communes. Many documentaries and articles (including the ever-dependable Atlas Obscura) have covered the long history of events that created California’s second largest lake and it’s subsequent decline in the 1970’s due to weather events, toxic agricultural runoff and other factors.
Various forms of “desert art” have colored the decaying lakeside communities, with the pinnacle of hippie art probably best exemplified by Salvation Mountain a few miles east of the lake. If you’re into bizarre desert art made from any and all materials, you’ll be in heaven cruising the lake communities like Bombay Beach, Slab City and Salvation Mountain. Keep an eye out for date shake stands! Delicious.
FYI, some “characters” linger in these parts, and as always recommend using awareness when exploring these communities…
Salvation Mountain, east of Salton Sea
Salton Sea
Salton Sea
Slab City, east of Salton Sea
Salton Sea
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