California Desert Mysteries Road Trip

by | Mar 23, 2022 | Western U.S. | 0 comments

Map showing trips locations for California Desert Mysteries road trip.

Quick Stats

Distance: 300 miles

Recommended time: 2 days

Highlights: Joshua Tree, Pioneertown, Salton Sea, Integratron, Giant Rock, California City

Main Highways: CA-58, 247, 111, 86
Summary: This desert odyssey explores world renowned Joshua Tree and lesser known gems with intriguing pasts, such as California City (featured in a recent hit podcast series), the paranormally connected Integratron and Giant Rock and the surreal surroundings of the Salton Sea.

California City

Lost in the Mojave Desert, California City has a population of 14,000, but is the third largest city in state by land mass. How can that be? This is one scenario where the Field of Dreams quote “build it and they will come” didn’t work out.

A real estate developer by the name of Nat Mendelson purchased 82,000 acres of desert land in the late 1950’s with dreams that it would one day rival Los Angeles, and hired master planners to lay out the roads, parks and infrastructure. Unfortunately, for a variety of reasons, the people never came. Driving through certain areas of the city – with empty dirt roads that disappear into infinity – gives the feeling of a post-apocalypse. As you’re driving east on barren Highway 58 towards the north turnoff to the city, you see the California City city limits sign about 15 miles before you actually hit the town.

Atlas Obscura did a great write up on its history and LAist Studios did an intriguing podcast on the real estate scandals here that bankrupted some California dreamers.

Desert road disappearing into the horizon, desert sand and brush on both sides, blue sky above.

Road to California City off Highway 58

California City welcome sign saying "welcome to California City, land of the sun" at the right of the road leading into town.  Blue sky with no clouds.

Auspicious Welcome Sign!

Street sign in middle of desert saying "California City Boulevard."  A couple desert hills in background, blue sky with no clouds.

California City’s one of many “streets to nowhere”

Street sign in middle of desert at right, and street disappearing into nowhere at left.  A couple desert hills in background, blue sky with no clouds.

This empty street did get one house

Sign at left saying "Silver Ranch Saddle and Club," entry security check in window at right.  Blue sky with no clouds.

Defunct Silver Saddle Ranch, the focus of the California City podcast

Landers

A mysterious looking white dome that looks like either a geodesic home or a UFO landing, the Integratron was featured in the 2018 Amazon Prime documentary Calling All Earthlings. Designed by UFOlogist George Van Tassel (who claimed the design instructions were provided to him by aliens from Venus), it was financed by Howard Hughes and the UFO conventions that Van Tassel organized.

UFO shaped sign at right saying "Integratron" with arrow pointing left.  Blue sky with a few scattered clouds.

Landers

Semi-dome three-story tall white structure at left next to short palm tree in middle and sign at right foreground saying "Integratron".

Integration

He claimed the structure had rejuvenation properties, and would eventually be capable of time travel (he died in 1978 before its completion). A National Historic Landmark, it is claimed to be “acoustically perfect”, and rock band Arctic Monkeys recorded their song “Secret Door” there. Tours are available, but must be booked well in advance.

Around the corner and down a dirt road from the Integratron is the largest freestanding boulder in North America, Giant Rock, which is also connected with Van Tassel. Van Tassel lived underneath the rock with his family (it reportedly never got over 80 degrees underneath in the sweltering desert), and held his UFO conventions nearby. The local Native Americans consider the rock sacred. As usual with curio sites like this, Atlas Obscura has done a terrific write up.

Massive boulder at left and a slice of the rock that fell off laying at right.  Blue sky with no clouds.

Giant Rock, which split apart in 2010

Bottom of giant rock in desert sand, with a small entry opening.  A white heart spray painted above opening.

Sealed off entrance to living quarters

Pioneertown

A great home base for exploring Joshua Tree is Pioneertown (pop. 420), a town created as a film set in the 1940’s and featured in The Cisco Kid and some Gene Autry westerns. Pappy and Harriet’s is the happening place in town with good grub, outdoor seating and a stage (Paul McCartney played here in 2016). Pioneertown is a perfect stargazing area – check AirBNB for homestead rentals and get a place with a hot tub for a night show.

Inside of Pappy and Harriet's restaurant, with a photo wall at right with silver record in display case hanging next to photos.

Pappy and Harriet’s, Pioneertown

Minimalist style desert homestead house at sundown.

Homestead Modern #1, available on Airbnb, Pioneertown

Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Monument is one of those other-worldly bucket list parks that has you wondering if you’re still on planet earth. While there are extended hikes, many of the best ones are short one-to-three milers that have a reward at the end – like an old mine or a rock resembling a skull staring you down. Endless photo opportunities here, and make sure to get in the park early during peak seasons (Fall and Spring).

Looking ahead on desert road at sunrise, just slight amount to orange color over horizon.  Joshua Tree at right.

West entrance to Joshua Tree at sunrise

Joshua tree with tree arms pointing in every direction in sparse desert surrounding  at sunrise.

Joshua Tree

Dirt path in between a series of Joshua trees, blue sky with no clouds.
Rusty iron tomb marker that says "Bailey's Grave" in foreground, with some Joshua trees in background and clear blue sky.

Bagley’s Grave on Wall St. Mine Trail

Remnants of old rusty model T ford in the desert dirt, some bushes and rock behind. Blue sky with no clouds.
Series of ordered stones in ground, spelling out some ancient symbols called the "Rhythm of Life" at sunrise.

Rhythm of Life, north of Joshua Tree, Yucca Mesa

Two white Christian statues at Desert Christ Park sitting amidst the desert terrain of rocks and desert brush.

Desert Christ Park, north of Joshua Tree, Yucca Valley

Orange UFO looking structure at right in the desert sand and brush, ridge of mountains in the background and blue sky above.

Futuro House in Joshua Tree

Painting of a giant lizard on side of building, palm trees at left, blue sky with no clouds.

Random art in 29 Palms

Mural of a lady with serpents for hair on side of building, blue sky with no clouds.

More random art…I forgot where

Salton Sea

Once a resort destination, the Salton Sea is now a wasteland of decaying resort communities and eccentric art communes. Many documentaries and articles (including the ever-dependable Atlas Obscura) have covered the long history of events that created California’s second largest lake and it’s subsequent decline in the 1970’s due to weather events, toxic agricultural runoff and other factors.

Various forms of “desert art” have colored the decaying lakeside communities, with the pinnacle of hippie art probably best exemplified by Salvation Mountain a few miles east of the lake. If you’re into bizarre desert art made from any and all materials, you’ll be in heaven cruising the lake communities like Bombay BeachSlab City and Salvation Mountain. Keep an eye out for date shake stands! Delicious.

FYI, some “characters” linger in these parts, and as always recommend using awareness when exploring these communities…

Brightly painted hill with yellow painted stairway in between blue and white stripes, painted flowers and painted green patches, part of the Salvation Mountain art monument.

Salvation Mountain, east of Salton Sea

Random junk and old TV on desert ground with an orange cement barrack in background painted with graffiti, blue sky with scattered clouds.

Salton Sea

Two-story high aluminum banana shaped art structure, with UFO like elliptical sphere perched on top.  Blue sky with no clouds.

Salton Sea

Painted cement barrack that says "caution: reality ahead" in red and white paint.  Road at right,  Blue sky with scattered clouds above

Slab City, east of Salton Sea

Graffiti painted on side of abandoned cement building, with a white puffy face with red lips and other random art scribbled on building.  Blue sky with no clouds.

Salton Sea

Extra

Book cover of "Desert Oracle" by Ken Layne - yellow cover with cactus drawing underneath title.

Great podcast, especially when roadtripping through the desert!

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